City Escapes

Sydney Morning Herald

Thursday July 27, 2006

Lisa Dabscheck

A weekend break at one of the oldest homesteads on the river has hooked Lisa Dabscheck.

Some people think holiday houses are great escapes from the hurdy-gurdy. Others think they're good investments.

I have my own theory: holiday houses are places to put the junk that's too good for the rubbish but too rubbish for home.

When cheap chain store tat and DIY craft experiments are on death's door, holiday houses come into their own. Like aliens returning to the mother ship, sticky "non-stick" pans, lumpy sofas, brick-like pillows, fluorescent "mood" lighting and dusty macrame find their penultimate resting place.

But what if, I've often wondered, there was a holiday house where the cookware was good enough to cook with, the bed wasn't tired and the weathered walls weren't applied with a sponge? Well, I'm loath to share it with you but this place is it. One of the oldest original homesteads on the Hawkesbury, Amaroo is a charming cottage with its own boatshed, complete with fishing rods, crab traps, nautical antiques and linen-covered deckchairs arranged around

a very inviting chess set. In its annexe is a retreat with a guest bed, TV, oven and a bookshelf crammed to capacity.

That's just the adjunct to the real attraction. Up a set of stepping stones is the main house, fronted by an expansive timber balcony and backed by original sandstone. The main and twin bedrooms have antique beds with feathery quilts and soft linen. Old family photographs line the walls; Persian rugs warm the floors; a feather quill sits on the writing desk.

As for the kitchen, if Stephanie Alexander's The Cook's Companion is your bible, then this is your church. Use the chopped wood to fire up the pot-bellied stove in the hearth or sling one of the heavy pots onto the hob. There's even a dishwasher (and no, I don't mean my boyfriend).

Everything works as it should. When you've spent the rent in the David Jones Food Hall sourcing size-five spatchcocks, it's delightful not to scrape their charred remains into the bin.

Once your masterpiece is complete, you can survey your plot for a place to eat. Built on a terraced hillside, the house has a tiered garden with a range of dining options: a wooden table by the barbecue and brazier; a courtyard out the back door; a bistro table on the jetty; or nestled among the native plants, followed by a lazy game of petanque on the lawn.

You can reach Amaroo by land but it's better to get there by boat. If you have your own (up to 6.5 metres), you can sail right up to the private jetty. If not, you can arrange an all-inclusive taxi-and-tinnie package in advance (see box).

Apart from adorning the jetty as you gaze upon it from the balcony, the tinnie is useful for getting you to and from the many beaches, walking trails and waterside cafes in the vicinity - and for fishing. I use this term loosely.

Locals say this part of the Hawkesbury is designed for doing nothing. If you're as skilled as we are, then fishing in this river will suit that purpose. After two (or was it four?) hours, rods in hand, hope in hearts, we had caught nothing. But then something happened. The line went taut. The rod developed a bulge. The reel flew around. We wound it in. On the hook was ... a fish. A very fat fish. A fish apparently so distressed by being nabbed by such novices that it blew itself up until it was not entirely dissimilar to a soccer ball - but with spikes. It didn't look edible.

We cut the puffer fish some slack and chucked some steak onto the brazier. With smoky flames rising, gentle music floating by and glass of red in hand, I was ready to amend my theory about holiday houses. This one, at least.

Need to know

Amaroo Cottage & Boatshed, Bar Point.

Phone: 9985 7888

www.HawkesburyRiver.com

Cost

Weekend for 2 adults $690 (2 nights).

Weekend for 4 adults $890 (2 nights).

Extra night $150 (excluding December, January and long weekends).

Catering and breakfast hampers available by advance request.

Boat hire

Hawkesbury Cruises does a self-drive runabout and water taxi transfer package. $250 a weekend. Phone: 9985 9900.

Distance from Sydney

About an hour on the F3 plus a 15-minute boat trip to the house.

Children welcome?

Yes, over 10 for Amaroo but there are plenty of other holiday houses more suitable for children in the vicinity.

Things to do

Where to eat*

Riverside Brooklyn Restaurant

With expansive views over the river, this is where locals who like long lunches dine. Pelicans drop by, too. The menu features tapas, oysters and legendary stuffed jalapeno peppers. Phone: 9985 7248.

Peat's Bite

Open from the first weekend in September until the Queen's Birthday weekend in June, this is the place to indulge in a five-course lunch, throw a party for 150 guests or stay the night if you feel inclined.

Phone: 9985 9040.

Spencer General Store and Cafe

About 45 minutes upstream from Amaroo by tinnie. As well as pies and sausage rolls, it serves bacon and eggs, burgers and stocks the essentials: decent coffee,

champagne, newspapers and bait. Phone: 4377 1123.

*All accessible by boat, Peat's Bite accessible only by boat or seaplane.

Activities

Fishing

The whole area is renowned for the quantity and quality of its catch.

Boating

"Australia's Last Riverboat Postman" is a piece of history floating on the river. Although its primary purpose is to deliver mail and supplies to locals in water-access-only properties, it also takes passengers along for the 45-kilometre ride, which passes oyster leases as well as the wreckage of HMAS Parramatta, directly opposite Milson Island. Departs from Hawkesbury River Wharf 9.30am, returns 1.30pm weekdays only.

Adult $45, concession $38.

Phone: 9985 7566.

Any complaints?

Not being able to move in.

Don't miss...

Spencer

A sleepy, tiny village with a general store and cafe (above), it's made for leisurely strolls and relaxed chats. The school has a playground perfect for children and would-be-children to explore on weekends.

© 2006 Sydney Morning Herald

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